Mag Bay to San Jose del Cabo

This morning we arose to fog so thick you could hardly see the bow of the boat. The decks were dripping, and walking outside covered you in a fine mist as if you were on the moors in Scotland. Not that I have ever been to the moors of Scotland but I have read Jane Eyre and all those novels so I can imagine. 

We could not see a single boat around us – it was pretty soupy. I opted for a bit of a bigger breakfast, and as the boat was made right and ready for departure by the captain, we cooked eggs, sausages, and toast – and coffee of course. Lots of coffee. It was impossible to determine visually which boats had actually left and which remained, but by the time we were ready to bring up our anchor the majority of Cubaristas had departed. We heard that it was also the beginning of lobster season, which meant pangas and traps, but I think even the most diehard pescadoro was daunted by the fog so we encountered neither in our slow amble towards the passage out. Other boats were coming in, though, so there was a lot of looking ahead and beside, and I had my airhorn at hand ( one for starboard two for port) just in case. Not sure anyone else knows the whistle and horn signals but if nothing else, it would alert unseen boats to our presence.

Chatter on the radio indicated that the rest of the fleet had made it out and it was blue sky, calm seas, and great fishing. As soon as we cleared the fog bank I had two lines in the water with the trusty cedar plug lures on each, one at 40 and one at 70 feet behind. Rumours had it someone has caught the biggest yellowtail they have ever caught – I think we are a bit close to shore for that but as we move south we are angling away and I am going to be positive that somewhere there is a fish with our name on it. I am loaded for bear! or tuna… or dorado. After the meal of Dorado on Varnebank the other night, I am thinking a big dorado or two would be wonderful. A girl can dream!!!


later in the day – well if this girl’s dream included orcas and turtles and dolphins and a flat sea and a blue sky, I guess my dreams came true. Fish-wise, not so much, and not from lack of trying!

Ah well – lots of excitement otherwise. Salty Groms got into a pod of orcas, who were feasting on dolphins… so those of us close to them headed over to see the whales. We didn’t get the show they did, but with a boat full of kids I think they probably appreciated the whole event more than just about anyone else.


We were treated to some big whale sightings, a few leaps out of the water, a few turtles (running away from the orcas I would guess)…. and then it was back on course with the lines in the water. 

It was a gorgeous afternoon – punctuated by a bit of a drama unfolding as one of the small boats, Brown Eyed Girl, broke down and had to use their kicker – and there was a chance they could run out of gas before they got to Cabo. After a lot of discussion and jiggling around, one of the boats was able to head over and drop off some spare fuel for them. However the decision was finally made to actually pick them up and tow them back, so Varnebank, being the grand dame of the fleet, will head over now and pick them up.

Hopefully it will work out, unfortunately it will be dark before they get there. 

We are reminded again how important communication is, and grateful for the work that was done prior to leaving to get everyone on side and on the radios. 


The night run was uneventful for us, not a lot of sleep for either Lawrence or I but with just a short overnight trip we know we can make up for it when we get to the marina.. if we need to.

The story of the little Nordy that could is going to make Nordhavn history I think! we were all impressed with how two of the fleet figured out ways to safely drop extra fuel off to Brown Eyed Girl but the eventual return of Sprezzatura back to the limping vessel and subsequent flawless hand off of a towing line was textbook towing – didn’t hurt that Eric on Sprezzatura had a very very qualified crew member in Sam! By the time they arrived at Brown Eyed Girl, they had their towing bridle made and the plan in place for handing it over to the other boat. Calm, cool, and collected.. it was marvellous to listen to them.

Their progress south towards Cabo was monitored with interest and readiness to lend a hand by a number of Cubar boats – again, proof that good communication is imperative for a trip like this! And it sure made being on the midnight watch interesting, listening in on conversations and rooting for the little guys!

Travelling around the point was beautiful, the air was pretty clear so it was a very impressive sight. And as we passed Cabo, a humpback whale followed us and gave us a little show, just to round out our wildlife sightings!

We all arrived into port in the early afternoon, found our assigned berths, and made it up to the office to check in. (funnily enough our slip assignment is exactly where our boat, previously known as Worknot, was during our stay for Cubar 2015)

Sometime during the afternoon, while our captain ( who had had about four hours sleep in 36 hours) napped, and Val and I were puttering around the boat, we heard a cacophony of horns, blasting away through the harbour. All our Cubar boats had been spread throughout the marina, and what was happening was, as Sprezzetura towed Brown Eyed Girl past the boats, everyone honked their horns to welcome them! I got on our horn just as they rounded the corner and found their berths – they had made it! 

Val wanted to go welcome them, although I was loathe to do it as I was sure they were going to collapse from fatigue.. but we went over there just to congratulate them on a job well done. They appreciate our hugs and then gently told us we had to go as the captain and crew of Brown Eyed Girl was coming over to have a “captain’s meeting” complete with Beer and Tequila. We left them to their discussions… to later see them up at the Container when we all shared a meal of Varnebank’s catch ( tuna and dorado) prepared and cooked by the kitchen. It was a fantastic dinner and a fantastic night – almost everyone left afterwards to go into town, including our heroes .. ah the stamina of the young! 


It is great to be back at San Jose del Cabo – the girls at the office remembered us, the dock guys are terrific, and someone has offered to wash our boat so it’s all GREAT!!!~ 

And we know we are nearing the end of the odysssey, although there is a party scheduled for tomorrow and a overnight in Muertos, which we are all looking forward to. And now, we are expecting Bill to join us, as he is flying in with the Kemps and it seems a good idea to have him come onto the boat and finish the rally with us, for old time’s sake. They will all be able to come to the party, too – and as a number of the boats are Cubaristas from 2015, it will be a joyous reunion!!! It is also a parting, as those 2015 boats are going to head straight to Puerto Vallarta from here. Hopefully we will be able to catch up to them in early January, when we head down there ourselves. The adventure continues! And so far, so GREAT!